Motorino

When Neapolitan pizzaioli engage in mine-is-bigger-than-yours trash talk, chances are they’re comparing cornicioni. On that front, Mathieu Palombino has nothing to be ashamed of. His crusts are so tall and puffy they should be tethered to ropes and paraded down Broadway like Bullwinkle on Thanksgiving Day. And that’s not the only thing the Belgian chef, who’s worked the fine-dining circuit from Bouley to BLT, has mastered: His tomatoes are bright, his buffalo mozzarella sweet, and his Margherita DOC a thing of beauty. The crust exhibits a range of appealing textures, from crisp and chewy to light and airy. Of the various other pies on offer, including occasional seasonal specials like ramps and sweet peas, we like the Brussels sprouts with fior di latte, pecorino, and pancetta. Nearly surpassing it, though, is a good old sausage-and-mushroom pie. It’s meaty reassurance for skeptics who believe that things like sweet peas, ramps, and Brussels sprouts have no place on a pizza.